Last updated on November 12th, 2021 at 09:39 am
Do you know what’s the first thing Bengalis do when they get the yearly calendar? They check when is this year’s Durga Puja (or Pujo), the annual religious festival which also doubles up as a cultural extravaganza. And experiencing Kolkata Durga Puja (or Pujo as in the Bengali language) is a bucket list item if cultural heritage excites you!
Durga Pujo is a 10-day festival celebrated in Bengal and the rest of India, marking the destruction of the demon Mahishahura by the Goddess Durga.
The preparations for the festival in Bengal are as fascinating as the festival itself. And when it comes to Kolkata Durga Puja,it promises the ultimate experience of festive grandeur and creative excellence.
A Mini Background To Durga Puja In Bengal
I am not a ritual expert and would rather share a little thought on how Bengal’s Durga Puja is distinctly different from the rest of India and why Durga Puja in Kolkata is so unique.
In Bengal, Maa Durga is considered as the daughter who comes home to her father’s place with her four children (Laxmi, Ganesh, Kartik and Saraswati) after defeating the demon Mahishashur. People in Bengal celebrate her homecoming by welcoming her through various rituals, a lot of merriment, and celebration. That makes it more like a carnival rather than just a religious festival. It’s also a celebration of ‘naari shakti’ or woman-power.
Homecoming of daughter after a year! The emotion attached to this is very earthly and makes Ma Durga so close to the heart of the people of Bengal. Yes. She is a Goddess, but still, there’s something humanly about her. Everyone in the state, irrespective of their social or economic status, is immersed in the festivities.
On the 10th day (Vijaya Dashami), when it is time for Maa Durga to return to her husband, Lord Shiva’s abode (Kailash), people in Bengal bid her farewell with teary eyes.
There’s another stark difference between Bengal’s celebration of Durga Puja and Navaratri in rest of India. Bengali people can eat non-vegetarian food during the celebrations, which is strictly not allowed in Navaratri.
Essence Of Durga Pujo In Bengal
Satyajit Ray’s film ‘Pather Panchali’ has a famous scene where we get to see little Apu and Durga (names of the protagonists, the brother-sister duo) running through a field of swaying Kash Phool (white and fluffy seasonal flower blooming in autumn) to catch a glimpse of a running train. This Kash Phool is the symbol of the advent of autumn in Bengal and the upcoming Durga Pujo.
There’s a saying called ‘Pujo-pujo bhaab’ loosely translated as ‘pujo feeling.’ It is precisely from this time (August) that the pujo-pujo bhaab sets in. It is difficult to explain, and people wait and prepare for the upcoming festivities.
The magic and excitement of the Durga Pujo are further reinforced by the release of annual literary magazines from leading editing houses covering literary works (novels, short stories, essays, poems, etc.) of renowned writers. In other words, Bengalis look forward to the Pujo Barshiki Magazines or the Pujo edition of these literary magazines for some food for thought.
Then there are shopping for the festival (pujo r bazaar) in line with what’s the latest fashion trend of the market. And while Durga Pujo is a 10-day festival starting with Mahalaya, the actual excitement starts from the 5th day, Panchami. The pujo experience kicks in with pandal-hopping, offering pushapanjali on Ashtami, eating bhog as part of community lunch, and meeting friends and relatives.
Also Read : Things To Buy From Kolkata, India
What Is So Unique About Kolkata Durga Puja
There’s no denying that Kolkata Durga puja is special. In 2019, Durga Puja in Kolkata was nominated by the India government for attaining UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) status.
A few weeks prior to the festival, the city’s preparation for the upcoming festival is at its peak. It is from this time when the city and its people gear up for the yearly festival.
Here, I have listed some unique features of Durga Puja that you can experience in Kolkata.
1. Kolkata Durga Pujo experience– Watch the ‘City of Joy’ decked up as a bride
How do you know a festival is ongoing in a city?
It is from the festive decorations! From right outside Kolkata airport or the railway stations, the city gets decked with festoons, hoardings, and advertisements. The approach road to the Puja pandals is decked up with festive décor and lots of lights.
The transformation of the city from her normal days to festive attire is remarkable. Every Puja pandal has its way of decorating the streets and neighborhood, and they all differ from each other.
And since the entire city is decorated, the scale of festive décor is unimaginable! People who can’t go out to the streets for various reasons do not have anything to miss. There’s light and decorations everywhere.
It’s a treat to the eyes!
2. Experience Theme Pujos
While the entire city of Kolkata turns into an open art gallery with unique pandals and lightings, ‘Theme’ Pujos speak volumes about artistic thought and fine craftsmanship. So, don’t be surprised if you get to see a replica of the Burj Khalifa, the Buckingham Palace, a temporary Rajasthan in the city of Kolkata, a pandal and its idol made with glass bangles, or the replica of the entire set of the blockbuster film Bahubali!
The artists in Bengal can make it happen.
The concept of ‘Theme’ Pujo is simple – the overall presentation of the pujo is based on a ‘theme.’ And that theme can range from anything from current affairs to the forgotten art form of Bengal. The interiors of the pandal, approach road, lighting, and sometimes even the idol bear the same theme. Some big-budget Pujo committees get their theme soundtrack and songs recorded by renowned artists that are played within the Puja pandal.
It was in the city of Kolkata where the theme pujo originated. Nowadays, theme pujos have made their presence felt throughout Bengal in other districts. But the number of theme pujo s in Kolkata are many! And hence, there’s a lot to experience.
Theme pujo is a deviation from the traditional. Perhaps, that’s why it was a debatable topic (well, sometimes even today!) when it first started around 20 years ago in Kolkata. Bear in mind, in most of the theme pujo s, there’s a small Durga idol (next to the main idol) that is worshipped following all the rituals.
Theme pujos provide a creative outlet to the many talented artists in Bengal and provide a platform to showcase their work.
Can we ever forget Barisha Club’s tribute to the migrant mother (photo above) who walked miles with her children during the lockdown in pandemic times! The migrant mother was conceived as Goddess Durga with four of her children by her side. The idol went viral and made news pan India!
In 2021, it is Sree Bhumi Sporting Club’s 145 Feet Burj Khalifa replica that’s making headlines!
3. Get onto a photographic expedition at Kumartuli, North Kolkata.
The historic quarter of Kumartuli in North Kolkata is the potters’ locality that creates those elaborate Durga idols from clay. The enthralling process and craft of idol making is a treat to the eyes and can be experienced through guided tours or on your own.
The artisans at Kumartuli create idols for various religious festivals, Durga Puja being the grandest of them all. Enthusiastic photographers wander around the narrow alleys of Kumartuli to capture various moments while artisans provide shape to Durga Maa. These idols are exported to various parts of India and abroad.
If you plan to experience Durga Puja in Kolkata, arrive at the city a few days before to catch a glimpse of the idol-making at Kumartuli and capture some of the best photography moments.
4. Kolkata turns into ‘City of Lights’ and ‘City of Sound’
Can we borrow the ‘City of Light’ name from Paris for some time and assign it to Kolkata during Durga Puja?
The entire city is lit up for the celebration – from broadways to narrow alleys; the Calcutta is a treat to the eyes.
Many Puja pandals’ approach roads are illuminated, depicting current affairs moments relevant at the time. The scale and finesse with which the illuminations are installed make it a must-watch affair during Durga Puja in Kolkata.
The illumination artists from Chandannagar (city in Hooghly district of West Bengal) are well-known for this craft, and several Kolkata Puja committees hire them for the lighting work. The end product is no less than a miracle.
The other most essential element of Durga Pujo is the “Dhaak.” Dhaak is a barrel-shaped musical instrument similar to drums. “Dhaak -er Awaaj” (Sound of Dhaka) is an integral part of Durga Puja, and the festive aura is heightened with the divine rhythm.
Several Kolkata Durga Puja s hosts “Dhaak er lorai” or “Competition of Dhaak beats” – the spirit of Durga Puja is very much awakened by the sound of Dhaak.
5. Do not forget ‘Shabeki’ Pujo and the small Pujo s
While Theme puja is common in Kolkata, the ‘Shabeki’ or traditional pujo still outnumber the themes. Some of the renowned Puja pandals like Bagbaazar Sarbojonin, College Square in North Kolkata, and then Maddox Square in South Kolkata prefer to stick to the traditional approach.
Let’s not forget apart from the well-known pujos; there are numerous small locality pujo pandals as well. Many of them follow the traditional route.
It would be unfair to stick to only the big names. Because the smaller pujo s are not only beautiful, but they are also probably cozier and have a homely touch.
The best part of Kolkata Durga Puja is that there is a Durga Puja pandal in every 500 meters. So, even if you do not have a plan in hand, just start exploring the neighborhood where you are staying. I can promise you will be surprised to see the number of pujas out there.
6. Sharad Shamman or the Best Pujo
It all started with Asian Paints in 1985.
Asian Paints Sharad Shamman is an award given to the best decorated Durga Puja pandal in Kolkata. The best Puja s are selected by a panel of eminent personalities in the field of art and culture. Asian Paints Sharad Shamman is a prestigious award with legacy attached to it.
Over the years, the trend has fine-tuned itself, and today there are several television channels and corporate bodies that recognize Kolkata Durga Puja pandals, idols, themes, and the overall creative excellence through various awards. Several puja pandals from other districts of Bengal are also included in the awards.
Usually, the panel of judges completes their selection process by Panchami (5th day) or Shashthi (6th day).
If you happen to be in one of the Puja pandals where the judges are present, there are chances of some celebrity spotting!
The day winners of Best Pujo/Blockbuster Pujo/Discovery of the year etc., are announced, those Puja Pandals experience a non-stop stream of visitors!
7. The endless debate on which pujo is a must-see
Thanks to the media coverage, the planning for which pujo is a must-see for the year begins from the 3rd day of Durga Pujo itself. The count of the number of people visiting those pandals are a testimonial to their popularity.
It is tough to choose which Pujo is a must-visit and which one can be skipped.
But then, it’s Pujo, right? A lot of planning is required 😊
Till then, let the debate continue.
8. Who is the winner? South Kolkata vs. North Kolkata pujos!
From schools to culture, there’s a significant difference between North Kolkata and South Kolkata. The same is reflected in the Durga Puja s from these areas.
North Kolkata is more traditional and boasts of some of the oldest and renowned Durga Pujas. At the same time, South Kolkata puja’s experiment a lot with themes nowadays. It is more new-age. And yes! There are several renowned pujo s from South Kolkata too.
I love both 😊
Here is a list of some (only a few. There are many!) of the best Pujo’s from both South and North Kolkata:
South Kolkata Durga Puja
Mudiali Club
Ballygunj Cultural Association
Jodhpur Park
Tridhara Shammiloni
Ekdalia Evergreen
Singhi Park Durga Puja
Deshapriya Park
Chetla Agrani
Suruchi Sangha
Barisha Club
Behala Notun dal
North Kolkata Durga Puja
Bagbazaar Sarbojonin
Ahiritola Sarbojanin Durgotsab
Kumartuli Sarbojanin Durgotsab
Santosh Mitra Square Sarbojanin Durgotsab Samity
College Square Durga Puja
Telengabagan
9. Pandal Hopping throughout the night
When it comes to festivities, your squad comes first. From pandal-hopping to feasting, a true celebration of Pujo is incomplete without friends.
And some of the best Pujo memories are created through the whole-night pandal-hopping program with your gang!
The best part of whole-night pandal-hopping is that you get to see the illuminations and the pandals with much less crowd around.
It is also easier to travel within the city during late hours at night during puja. There is lesser traffic and perhaps the only time where you can club several North and South Kolkata pujo s together.
The whole-night pandal hopping program is a must-do Durga Puja activity in Kolkata with friends and family.
10. Kolkata Durga Puja is also a food festival.
Festival and food go hand-in-hand. It is the food that adds to the charm and allure of the Durga Puja experience in Kolkata. There are innumerable roadside stalls serving street food to 3-course meals round the clock. The variety of food available is many.
One of the main attractions of pandal-hopping in Durga Puja is to take temporary breaks and grab some food from the stalls. It can be the Phuchka, Egg Roll, Moglai Parota, Fish Fry, Biryani or even some ice cream.
If roadside stalls add to the festive fervor, the dine-in restaurants are not far behind. All the restaurants in the city are super-busy during the puja days and work round-the-clock.
Durga Puja is also a good time to savor some of the most authentic Bengali food. Luchi, Basanti Polao, Chanar Dalna, Bhetki Paturi, Kosha Mangsho are just a few to name.
Head on to specialty restaurants like Oh Calcutta, 6 Ballygunge Place, Bhojohori Manna, Koshe Kosha or Sholoana, for some of the best Bengali treats.
Bear in mind, the queues and waiting time can be long for both roadside stalls and dine-in restaurants.
11. Witness the grand ‘Kumari Puja’ at Belur Math
“To look upon God as Mother is the purest and the highest form of Sadhana,” said Sri Ramakrishna.
Swami Vivekananda initiated Kumari Puja in Belur Math, Howrah in 1899 in appreciation of Sri Ramakrishna’s devotion to Divine Mother and faith in Mother Worship.
Howrah is at a stone’s throw distance from Kolkata on the other side of the river Hooghly.
The grand ritual of Kumari Puja is held on Maha Ashtami (8th day of Durga Puja) at Belur Math, the headquarters of Ramakrishna Mission ashrams across the globe. The Monks and devotees offer flowers to the Kumari (the young unmarried girl), followed by a spectacular aarti.
If you happen to be in Kolkata during the Pujo, witnessing the Kumari Puja at Belur Math is something that can be on your ‘to-do list.
Kumari Pujo of Belur Math is live telecast all over West Bengal on Maha Ashtami.
12. Experience the Durga Puja Bisarjan Carnival on Red Road
* The ongoing pandemic has put a halt to the carnival. Hoping this is temporary and will be revived once we fight back the pandemic.
The West Bengal Government initiated a unique show in 2016 called Bisarjan Carnival on Red Road, Kolkata.
Bisarjan (immersion of the idol in water) of the Durga idol happens on the 10th day of the festival.
More than 50+ notable Durga Puja committees participate in the Bisarjan Carnival and allow spectators to watch all the best idols all together.
The procession is a beautiful representation of the vibrant tradition and rich cultural experience of Bengal and is complemented by beats of dhaak and music.
The carnival is live-streamed on Facebook, too, for spectators across the globe.
Things To Keep In Mind While Visiting Kolkata During Durga Puja
Now some realistic points to remember:
1. Book your tickets in advance.
Plan your visit to Kolkata during Durga Puja well in advance. Air Tickets to Kolkata get very expensive if not booked ahead. Railway tickets are only available if booked months ago. So, a little planning goes a long way.
2. Be prepared for the crowd, queue, and traffic jam
Yes. There will be a crowd and queue.
During pandemic times, there are certain restrictions to visit the pandals. But still, the crowd cannot be avoided.
Mask up and enjoy the festivities.
Traffic jam is also common in Kolkata during Durga Puja. However, it has been controlled well in the last couple of years. Kolkata Police is the busiest during this time, and you can see police force commissioned everywhere across the city.
Did you know that Kolkata Police is the only police force in India that wears a white uniform?
On a lighter note, I will go a step ahead, recalling my younger days 😊
Kolkata Police mans the area near major Puja Pandals to control the crowd. Perhaps only this time of the year when you get to see some of the smartest police officers on the streets wearing high boots, sending instructions on the walkie-talkie, and sporting an Aviator during day times.
Kolkata Durga Puja brings out the best in everyone! You know what I mean 😊
3. Parking is a problem!
Most Pujos (and certainly the renowned ones) have their Parking lot far away from the Puja Pandal, and some of the routes are one-way.
So, you will need to park your vehicle at a place and then walk down. It is better to chalk out the Pujo plan to identify Parking lots of Puja pandals you intend to visit.
4. The weather is hot and humid.
Late September till October is the time when Durga Puja is held. The weather is hot and humid in Kolkata during this time. People who are not used to humid weather might find it a bit uncomfortable.
Believe me, even true blue Calcuttans feel uncomfortable in this weather. But still, they gear up for the festivities and dress up in their best attire.
It’s a festival after all!
5. It might rain.
The worst thing to happen during Pujo is the heavy shower. And it is pretty much common in Kolkata when it rains during late September or early October.
If it is raining heavily, that mars the entire pandal-hopping plan. Also, it is inconvenient to move around the city too.
Not that you can do anything about nature’s whims. Just be aware of this.
6. Book a tour
A guided tour to Durga Puja festivities is often a great choice to experience the festival without hassle.
Closing Thoughts on Kolkata Durga Puja
Kolkata Durga Puja is an emotion for many of us who have grown up in the city. But, if you are not from Kolkata and haven’t experience Durga Puja in the ‘City of Joy, ‘ it should be added to your bucket list of experiences. I can guarantee it will be a larger-than-life experience.
